Wednesday, 6 April 2011

⊙ The day they let me loose in a paper factory ⊙

Picture this? I'm being driven through Kathmandu in a taxi, seats furnished with bathroom mats and a very sweet, earnest driver, we swerve around school buses with drivers glassy eyed and leaning into mobile phones.
School girls with long once white woollen tights scatter across city highways, over shawled and over wrinkled old ladies wander through heavy traffic. 
Vehicles suddenly go into reverse and one way means actually any way you like?
everyone shrugs and moves over
this would enrage the British, the rules; what about the rules?


A surplus of sadness pills in my stomach, that life can be so fragile, that this is it...here we are, all leaning like dominoes on each others ability to think clearly, to move in turn, to skim over imminent disaster like rice rolling in an oiled pan 
no mans land:
no rules land

Oil and water, I dream of them, I'm inhaling dust here,
this airless, dirtbowl of a city,
my feet are cracking open and I have callouses on my toe pads
I'm becoming old before I'm ready
the dust settling into my lines and widening the cracks,
the thinning and drying of skin and surface whilst everything still boils and rages underneath

I am still a volcano

I reach up and out and in
over and over
feet grinding into ground that could tilt into an emergency
I'm holding on to the sides of my yoga mat in a rush of electrical storm
in a gale of thunder cracks and dry lightening

evening storms canter around the valley like dice in a cup
drying up
rolling up
spitting me out at dawn
wide awake, I recognise a cuckoo's song;
it's Springtime in Kathmandu
I'm here, I'm here

I dream of an oasis, a sea, a pool? a wetness that isn't here
I'm landlocked
I never felt so far from the quench

We survive the journey to the paper factory on a bus racing 
car chasing, 
motorbike ricocheting 
piece of road, 
"the factory highway "

Lots of industry gathered in one place, 
past the Rose Garden Restaurant and the lone petrol pump.. 
I enter through the grey gates held open by a small walk on character part Nepali
verging on the role of oriental doorkeeper of some exotic brothel, a twinkle in his toes
a query in his eyes? He should be in the movies...He is in mine.

And I'm in the paper factory, a huge hanger of a building
Wide open at each end and tables in the murky dark with workers all masked
breathing in paper dust all day. 
I'm glad to see a kitchen, lunch being prepared for workers, this isn't a sweat shop
this is a good business here.
A sign proclaims they do not employ children.


The production manager is a sweetheart, he indulges my over excitement and lets me roam the factory sighing and distracting his workers. I am spoiled, suffocated by choice, overwhelmed by colour combos and size and weight and colour.

sewn book blocks
I'm here to buy paper for book covers, these are the sewn book blocks that I have taught the girls to make. And below is the first stack that I dare to rifle through. It's too much, even for me who likes nothing more than fanning through reams of print and colour.
too much choice


It's everywhere, piled high, a laundry of assorted flora.

paper towers


paper carnation

Giant carnations of pink chrysanthemum, I am high on giant dry flowers.

paper dyeing

The garden is the dyeing department, a dip into green then a spreading and a sunbathe.

paper spreading


paper drying

die maps

The paper die cutting department, located in a leaning shed...a huge press and these paper dies looking like architectural room plans. I'm in love with their lines, their ability to cut precise sharp creases. The kiss of paper, the hiss of press.

die map

die map 2

dyes

dotty spots

my booty

And ladies applying dots of colour to boxes, labouring under a rare sunbeam that spotlights spots in the dreary dark.

These last sheets are some of my buying decisions. 
They are already attached to books...drying now in the quiet studio.

Here I am
Coating myself in ointments and creams
exporting paper reams and dreams of the sea.

13 comments:

gill said...

Hi Louise
I love all your pictures of your paper factory!
More please! the colours are wonderful

Lizzie said...

What a wonderful, poetic post, Louise! Obviously paper has this effect on you... or is it just Nepal itself, in its crazy, other-worldly, far-from-the-worldly, separate entireness?

The paper is amazing. I am a little jealous... I so love paper... today I have made covers for 5 books, until my glue ran out. Crisp, slightly textured French paper; textured damask-effect crinkly paper; warm, saffron yellow, rough and bitty Lokta, with the wonderful soft edge of hand-made sheet paper... sigh...
Yesterday I was tearing pages - such a satisfying occupation.
But I would love to visit that paper factory!

I'd love to see some of your students' finished books, with those gorgeous papers on them.

I hope you are well (apart from your poor feet, eh?). Keep well, stay happy!

jax said...

Died and gone to heaven ;o) So much wonderful paper!! I would have been there all day trying to pick ;o)

Anna Watkins said...

Lou, what beautiful writing, and the pictures are gorgeous. It's crazy to think that you're over there at THE SOURCE of all the amazing hand made papers and books we see sold here.
It's great to be able to follow your story!
Take care!

xx

louloulovesbooks said...

Thanks lovely ladies for your always thoughtful and kind comments. I wish you could all have been there with me. I am trying to find out about having a consignment shipped home but it is very tricky & complicated to do business here! Post Service is a nightmare, couriers are too expensive. Looks like we'll all have to carry on shopping in Paperchase etc.
{*}

Linda / PaperPhine said...

You make me wanting to go back to Nepal immediately! And even though I always took a huge bundle of wonderful papers with me from Kathmandu (three times now, to be exact) I never yet had the pleasure and time to visit a paper factory - next time I'll find the time (and hopefully the factory) and perhaps I'll just stay there...

nath said...

beautifully written. i miss you. xxx

suzie said...

I'll get back to you…..I popped in, in a hurry but I need more time to absorb.

ronnie said...

oooo.....my.....golly....goodness!

Francesca said...

Totally utterly amazing. All of it. It's another world. Enjoy enjoy enjoy. X

Carol said...

Just beautiful writing and photos. Those bundles of paper, and that hot pink at the end. Just gorgeous.

Sarah said...

WOW. What an amazing place, I can imagine feeling totally overwhelmed, where to begin!! Can't wait to see the finished books :)

Anneliese said...

this is one of the most delicious blog entries I have ever read.... thank you for sharing it!
For a moment I glimpsed into the paper factory, I walked with you through that dream infused with colour!
(for a fellow hand made paper addict)